Today, I have a step-by-step for performing an SBA (small bust adjustment) for a gathered bodice, such as the one on the Verity pattern. I have also included a sheet with step-by-step illustrations for quick reference.
For the sake of example, let’s say we have a high bust measurement of 32″ and a full bust measurement of 33″.
The Verity pattern is drafted for a C cup (or up to a D cup due to the use of knit material). So, the pattern is drafted for at least a 3″ difference between high and full bust. So, we need to choose a size which best matches our actual high bust measurement to the corresponding assumed high bust measurement. That means we would start with a size S. Since the full bust measurement is 35″ for this size, the assumed high bust measurement 32″ (35-3 = 32), which matches our actual high bust measurement. Since our actual full bust measurement is 33″ and not 35″, we need to remove 2″ across the front bodice by performing a small bust adjustment on the front bodice pattern piece.
Since the 2″ must be removed across the entire bodice, and the front bodice is cut on the fold, we will be removing 1″ from our pattern piece at the full bust.
Step 1: Hold the pattern piece up and mark the apex of the bust. Once we have the apex marked, we can draw our lines for slashing and folding.
-Draw the first line from the bottom of the bodice piece up to the apex, parallel to the center fold line
-Draw the second line from the apex up to the armscye (about 1/3 of the way up the armscye, below the notch).
-Draw a third line from the side seam out to the apex
-Draw a fourth line across the bodice piece, about 2″ up from and parallel to the bottom of the bodice piece.